Understanding the 32 Stitches of Lucknowi Chikankari

“From shadow-work Tepchi to microscopic Phanda knots, discover how female craft collectives in Lucknow’s Chowk neighborhood preserve shadow embroidery.”

Chikankari is the delicate and artful needlework of Lucknow, believed to have been introduced to the Awadh court by Empress Noor Jahan in the 17th century.

The craft comprises 32 distinct embroidery stitches, broadly categorized into flat stitches (such as Tepchi and Bakhiya), raised knot stitches (such as Phanda and Murri), and open-mesh thread-pulling stitches (Jaali).

Our Chowk collective in Lucknow works exclusively on 100% breathable cotton mulmul and pure organza. Each garment requires up to 45 days of meticulous hand embroidery by female master craftswomen working from their home ateliers.

To preserve your Chikankari kurta: hand wash in cold water with mild detergent, avoid wringing the delicate embroidery, and dry in shade inside out.